Tag Archives: spring

lessons learnt

Vogue 8750
click to go to pattern

Okay. Let’s look at this one last time, shall we?

Remember this, this, and more recently the petersham post here?

After several years of working (mostly not working) on this, I still think it’s a good pattern.

Just not in the fabric I chose. And there’s a huge learning curve in that “NOT.”

As I got into the pattern, which has some weird pieces that prove interesting for fit, I discovered that precise seam widths were vital. (ugh!) A fraction off in some places and it’s seam ripper time.

see any top stitching?
thought not.

But even more important was the concept of those side pieces. Definitely bias effect going on, which should affect what fabric gets used, and its pattern.

Blithely ignorant, I lost a lot of the skirt’s character, as all the interesting top stitched detail  became invisible on this patterned fabric.

Although I thought the weight of the cotton would be good (it’s okay), it turned out the ravelling has been horrendous. Something I didn’t discover until I’d washed it a few times, which I did over the past 2 years.

see all the straggling ends? don’t believe that using pinking shears on a cotton will handle any ravelling… just sayin’

But lest we get discouraged, there have been positives: Learning about petersham ribbon from Hila’s post and actually using it for a waistband has been a huge plus. (Suspect it will influence most future skirts.)

The other huge plus has been realising, then acknowledging my mistake in using fabric I do not like. (An early on-line purchase so I didn’t touch it beforehand.)

HUGE lesson learnt: Don’t even think about using up fabrics you don’t want to touch… even for a toile.

Below are assorted photos from the recent finishing. However, if you’re looking for sassy photos of me wearing this . . . 😱   Shock! Horror!

Do you ever see sassy piccies of me??  Lol!   Will admit to laundering it again, giving it a good press, and trying it on. It fits loosely, as I made a straight 16 I think, and am not about to alter it.

The petersham waist works really well for me (hate waistbands) as it sits at the waist (or would if I fitted it properly) and doesn’t annoy. Because of the weird side pieces there’s a good fit at the hip, particularly when seated.

Would I make it again? “Never say never.”  Maybe. . . . but with better fabric.

😊  Have a grand weekend, Lovelies!

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happy spring!

1″ creme & brown rayon petersham ribbons

The Petersham ribbon arrived Friday. It’s rayon and feels lovely – thank you to Chicago’s Vogue Fabrics!

(What petersham ribbon? I hear you ask… See previous post…)

Vogue has a variety of colours and widths, as the link above should indicate.

There’s also Britex in San Francisco (more choices). Now to sit down and sew & steam mine into place…

Got into warm weather hat making earlier in the solid week of 80’s, as I’ve been wanting a denim hat for years.

folkwear’s metropolitan hat is only 3 pieces & a snip to sew up! https://www.folkwear.com/products/269-metropolitan-hat

Using the never-ending denim (also used for that Morris blazer) it’s been sitting on the sewing table for a bit. Not saying how long a bit. 😳 But it finally came to the head of a pile one night and got mostly sewed up.

Then I discovered I really reeeally wanted some wire for the brim. And something to cover up the wire and finish off the brim nicely. Guess where I discovered just the thing. . . Yep. Vogue Fabrics, with the Petersham already in the post.

And all sewn to procrastinate on starting to fit & cut out a new pattern.

Don’cha just love  excuses.

😄  Happy Weekend, Lovelies! 🐇

hope everyone on both sides o’ the equator has a lovely weekend

linen #2: different kinds

Why am I still banging on about linen? Because it’s still hot enough to wear it round here: Sunday it’ll be above 80℉/28℃. ‘Nuff said.

Besides, the Southern half of our world is going into Summer. 😎  First, some piccies from my collection.

Puh-lease click a pic so you can read all the captions ’cause you’ll miss words if you’re only hovering.

 

Linen is described by different terms:

  • gauze – light weight, very loose weave, and see-through (think sheer curtains)
  • handkerchief – light colours might be sheer, but generally very good for dresses and blouses; Threads article suggests 2.8 to 3.5 ounces per square yard
  • medium – firm enough for lightweight jackets and trousers, also possibly some home décor; Threads’ article lists 5 to 7 ounces per square yard
  • heavy – think coats, handbags, home décor (including wallpaper!); Threads’ article suggests over 7 ounces per square yard.

Then there are linen blends, which should always be noted if the fabric isn’t 100% linen:

  • linen and cotton
  • linen and rayon
  • linen and wool
  • linen and silk
  • linen and wool and silk, etc.

If you’re getting the idea that all linens are not created equal you’d be spot on.

How to tell the difference between good and not-so good? Know the fabric and the supplier:

  • read the fabric description carefully
  • if in doubt, order a sample piece
  • look at the weave
  • look at the weight (ounces per yard or metre)
  • purchase from a company you’ve learned to trust!

Slubs: What the heck are they and are they good or bad? Neither! You see them in just about any fabric woven from individual fibres of wool, silk, hemp, cotton, etc. It’s the place where each piece has been joined together to form a longer thread, which is then woven into cloth. Obviously, the longer the original pieces, the fewer slubs, but remember that slubs don’t weaken the fabric.

According to the Threads‘ article, “Slubs are more likely to be a sign that the flax fibers were cut shorter in order to process them with equipment designed to process cotton, which is less expensive.”

Visible lint:

  • indicates either the presence of another fibre (such as cotton), or
  • lower quality linen

Ready to run screaming back to easier fabrics?

RESIST! Just an ickle bit more and you’ll feel better. Promise. Think SILK!

Huh? It has slubs too, right? (Silk fibres joined together, just like linen.) Think of the luxurious feel of a heavy silk – the lustre, the smoothness!

Good linen’s the same. But without the slippery factor ~ a-ha and he-he!

 

If you’ve watched the Fabworks video above, you’ll see the examples Dawn gives of linens available from their mill store. And while you don’t see close-ups of weave, seeing how the fabrics handle is very important. Dawn writes the descriptions of fabrics for their online store, and I’ve found them accurate. (Close-ups are on their web site.)

Julianne Bramson, author of the Threads article, suggests Fabrics-Store.com as another good online source. She councils if in doubt, order a minimum amount of the linen, look at the fabric and launder it before making a large purchase.

HUGE thank you’s for getting to The End! (Chocolate, anyone?)

 ❤     ❤     ❤

Next up, after you’ve chosen your linen, you can read how to launder and care for it.

Note that the Threads‘ article referenced here is not available online at this time.

For the record: Nobody mentioned here or elsewhere on this blog contributes anything to me or my blog. My opinions are my own!

Edited to add: linen #1: learning about linen 

linen #3: boring? no way!

 

question about my morris

IMG_8001

gathering stitches in place at top of sleeves & 1 seam already unpicked

How snug are your sleeves?
Can you comfortably wear a long-sleeved tee underneath?

If you can, then I need to do some recalculating.

Admittedly, I’m experimenting with shoulder size in this toile. My current fix is the change from a ½” to a ¼” seams.

Otherwise, am progressing well, with the PDF instructions and the online sew-along.

Those online photos helped get good corners done, as you see below. 😉

This fabric wouldn’t take any of my usual markers, so I finally used a pencil, and made big dots. Too big.

Not a good thing.

Seeing how she held the fabric showed me just how much play there should be, and where. That, plus knowing the dot was supposed to be ½” from both edges made the fix easy. Three stitches removed on each side, and everything lined up perfectly.

Now about those sleeves . . . he-e-elp!

sunday sevens #9

Natalie at Threads and Bobbins came up with the idea of Sunday Sevens.  Anyone can join in, and you don’t have to do a post every Sunday. Why not check out her site & try one, or a few, yourself? My post is a bit short this week, as my holiday hasn’t quite gone to plan. But it’s turning out quite enjoyable despite changes.

Hope everyone has a lovely week!

Sunday 7's